An hour by train from Barcelona is the town of Figueres, famous for the Dalí Theatre and Museum. Dalí was born here and is buried in a crypt below the museum.

The artist wanted the museum to be a “totally surrealist object, a totally theatrical museum.” It is.

Figueres remained loyal to the Republicans (leftists and anti Franco) during the Spanish Civil War and suffered bombing attacks. In one bombardment, the town theatre was destroyed, in rubble until 1960 when Dalí and the mayor decided to build his “theatre museum” on the site. The museum opened in 1974 and is a tourist destination.

The museum contains the artist’s personal collection and spans the work of his lifetime. Included are books he owned of works about artists he admired like Gustav Millet and Raphael.

Dalí was a skilled draftsman who was, during his lifetime, known as much for his eccentric and attention-grabbing behavior as for his art. While we consider him a surrealist, he did not always fit the description. During the Second World War and the Spanish Civil war, the Surrealists espoused leftist politics. Think of Pablo Picasso and Frida Kahlo. Dalí’s refusal to take a stand opposing Hitler and Franco had him almost evicted from the group. His membership survived, barely.

The collection reveals an artist who made beautiful sketches in the style of Raphael and who produced mystifying hallucinogenic paintings of his dreams and dramatic pieces of fine jewelry. The viewer careens from one style to another, shocked by the abrupt changes in method, media, subject. It’s fortunate that there are several terraces with benches, fountains and greenery to give the eyes and imagination a break.

Nude woman looking out a window? Or Abraham Lincoln?

The town goes all out for their most famous resident. This summer the restaurants all produced Dalí-inspired tapas. We ordered them, once. Our vote is for the tried and true versions.

At the end of a long day at the museum, we gathered back at the apartment, which was across the street from the museum, for a post-Dalí happy hour.