Our splurge Burgundian dinner was at Boisrouge, a restaurant run by Philippe and Catherine Delacourcelle. It was recommended to us by our lovely caviste couple, and they steered us in an excellent direction.

Philippe has written several cookbooks (wine, spices, Japanese cooking) and his wine suggestions and the plates he served us were reflective of his style and many years of work. With his brother, he ran a highly acclaimed Paris restaurant, Le Pré Verre, and, subsequently, another that was well-received but that I did not know, Le Vitis.

Now with his wife, who is recovering from cancer, he owns a beautiful small hotel (5 guest houses) and restaurant (with cooking classes) on a wooded property between Beaune and Dijon.

She is “the front of the house” and he is the chef, though they both welcome and serve guests. The physical plan is Asian in sensibility, with covered paths connecting guesthouses and restaurant, and an elevated boardwalk lit by Japanese lantern lights and bordered by a “river” of white stones that leads guests to a small carpark.

The restaurant, which is a spacious and airy room, has a modern kitchen at one end and, and, on this particular Tuesday evening, three tables: one serving 8, and two serving four. The menu is written on a chalk board. Hidden behind a wall at the chef’s end is a washing area where a young man cleans plates for the next course. A sink and drying rack in the chef area made me think that Philippe might wash his special knives and pans.

The restaurant is “table d’hôte” and we had to make reservations 24 hours in advance to ensure that there would be food for us. We were welcomed at the door by the chef. While pouring his favorite Aligoté for us, he explained the menu. There were 4 choices for our entrée or first course, four for our plat or main course, and three for dessert. Guests were staged over time: we were told to arrive at 7; the next group came at 8, and the last at 9. Except for the dishwasher, he and Catherine handle it alone.

The food was delicious! Everyone had at least one dish that was super and two that were good. The wines were chosen with care. Service from Philippe and Catherine was attentive and helpful. In all, it was a perfect evening.